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Nouvelles applications des insaponifiables et des lipides de synthèse d’origine végétale en dermocosmétique

La chimie des lipides constitue depuis de nombreuses années un pôle d’excellence pour les Laboratoires Expanscience, avec un savoir-faire historique dans le domaine de l’oléochimie de l’avocat, et plus particulièrement de sa fraction insaponifiable, obtenue par distillation moléculaire, avec une maîtrise totale de la filière du fruit jusqu’au produit fini.

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Author(s) : Nathalie Piccardi 1), Nicole Broutin 1), Sébastien Garnier 1), Jacques Legrand 1), Jean-Christophe Choulot1), Bernard Chadoutaud 2), Philippe Msika 1)

1) Laboratoires Expanscience, R&D Center, Epernon, France

2) Clinical Research Consultant, Toulouse, France

Oléagineux, Corps Gras, Lipides. Number 11, volume 6, 440-5, NOVEMBRE-DÉCEMBRE 2004, Actifs lipidiques, excipients et formulations cosmétiques

ESDR Vienna 2004, Abstract number : 407

Pharmacological and Clinical Activities of 5-Alpha Avocuta : Application for the Management of Androgenic Disorders

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Author(s) : Piccardi N (1), Piccirilli A(1), Choulot JC(1), Chadoutaud B (2), Msika P (1),

(1)R&D Center, Laboratoires Expanscience, France.
(2)Clinical Research Consultant, France

Androgen-dependent disorders, such as seborrhoea, acne and alopecia are among the most common diseases encountered by dermatologists in daily practice. These pathologies are in part related to an hyper-activity of 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme that metabolises testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT) a major potent androgen in human skin. In this work, we have investigated the efficacy of a lipidic fatty ester : 5-alpha Avocuta (butyl avocadate). Butyl avocadate is obtained from refined avocado oil through a biotechnological process, and is purified by molecular distillation.

We have demonstrated using dermal fibroblasts in culture that 5-alphaAvocuta is a potent inhibitors of 5-alpha reductase type I activity (-49% for the smallest dose tested 0.01%).

A multi-centric clinical evaluation, under dermatologist control, was conducted on 27 volunteers. The purpose of this study was to test the efficiency of a shampoo (1% of 5-acute Aocuta) after 3 weeks of application (1 application/2 days). Analysis of sebum secretion (Sebufix® F16) by visual scoring and by image analysis (Skin Visiometer®, SV600, CK, Germany) demonstrate that this shampoo is able to significantly reduce sebaceous production. Clinical investigations by the dermatologist (analogic scale) show that the shampoo clearly improves greasy hair aspect, and is able to reduce itching and pruritus, as well as dandruffs. The auto-evaluation by the volunteers confirms these data. The efficiency of 5-alphaAvocuta, formulated at 2% in a skin care, has been also demonstrated in the management of the hyper-seborrhoea of the face. After 3 weeks (application twice a day), this specific formulation was able to reduce the sebum production (-30%) at the level of the face, to improve all the clinical parameters (-31% in average) and to reduce the number of open comedons. The volunteers have also approved the efficiency of the product (78% good opinion), and they have reported an improvement of their quality of life.

5-alpha Avocuta is a new and original inhibitor of 5-alpha-reductase type I activity with proven efficiency on human scalp and skin disorders related to hyper-seborrhoea. This natural active ingredient may open the way to the formulation of original and efficient products dedicated to the treatment of androgenic disorders.


5-Alpha Avocuta : an innovative tool for the management of hyper seborrhoea

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Author(s) : Piccardi N (1), Choulot JC(1), Chadoutaud B (2), Msika P (1),

(1)R&D Center, Laboratoires Expanscience, France.
(2)Clinical Research Consultant, France

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