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Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2012)

Natural modulation of PAR-2 and TLR2 : Application to clinical acne skin care

N Lachmann,1 C Baudouin,1 M Biassette,1 S Bredif,1 F Menu,1
B Chadoutaud,2 P Msika1 and B Cribier3

1 Innovation R&D, Laboratoires Expanscience, Epernon, France,
2 ClinReal, Toulouse, France
3 Dermatological Clinic, Louis Pasteur University, Strasbourg, France _ Inflammation plays a central role in acne.
A global acne skin care product has been formulated with active principles : Quinoa peptides (natural PAR-2 modulator), 5-alpha avocuta, zinc gluconate, capryloyl glycine and long lasting alpha hydroxy acid derived.
In vitro studies on 5-alpha avocuta In dermal fibroblasts, it significantly inhibited type 1 5-alpha reductase activity (-49%). In keratinocytes treated with a synthetic TLR2 (Toll Like Receptor) ligand mimicking P acnes lipoprotein, it reduced the TLR2 gene overexpression (-52%), contributing to counteract the P.acnes-induced inflammatory cascade.
Quantification of UV P acnes derived porphyrines fluorescence 22 acneic patients, aged 11 to 40, applied the tested product twice a day for 30 days during an open study. VISIA CR coupled to computerized analysis demonstrated a 30% decrease of bacterial activity. Clinical study

A single blind comparative randomized study performed under dermatological control included 126 female patients (15-35 years old) with light to moderate acne (≤12 retentional and 5 to 9 inflammatory lesions). 64 applied tested product and 62 a referenced product twice daily for 90 days.
There were no statistic difference between both groups at D45 and D90. Tested product decreased inflammatory (respectively -50% and -70.3%) and retentional (-40.2%/-57.3%) lesions (p<0.01).
Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) confirmed an improvement in 89% of patients, 79.6% ≥50%. Seborrhea and post-lesional erythema were reduced by 38.5% and 35.1% at D45 (p<0.01) and by 56.4% and 51.4% at D90 (p<0.01).
Tolerance was excellent in 98% of cases. The use of a product targeting key acneic pathways (inflammation receptors, hyperseborrhea, hyperkeratinisation) with active principles from natural technology leads to a significant global improvement in mild to moderate acne.

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