Effect of a New Cosmetic Formulation on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation : A Clinical And Biometrological Approach
P. Msika, JL. Levy, L. Agopian-Simoneau, B. Chadoutaud
Intracellular signal transduction pathways regulating melanogenesis imply PKC, camp through the activation of PKA and NO.
A new whitening formulation, that targets these three different pathways, have been tested on melasma, with image analysis and a particular interest on the Qualiy of Life (QoL) of the volunteers.
The tested product was a cosmetic cream containing protein kinase C (PKC) and protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitors, vitamins E and C.
A new and innovative emollient with Cu-Zn-Mn triad for irritant and allergic dermatitis
C Baudouin(1), D Naaimi(1), C De Belilovsky(2), B Chadoutaud(3), P Msika(1)
(1)Laboratoires Expanscience, Epernon, France
(2) Institut Alfred Fournier, Paris, France
(3) Clinreal Online,Toulouse, France
Irritant, allergic contact dermatitis (ICD, ACD) and atopic dermatitis (AD), beside therapeutic prescriptions, need a specific cosmetic management with emollient, anti-irritant, antimicrobial and healing products.
A new emulsion for ICD and ACD with no antiseptic, no common preservative, no perfume and no colorant has been developed. _ It contains the first oligo-element triad (Cu-Zn-Mn), phytosphingosines, a Glycerol/Capryl Glycol complex and Dimethyl Oxobenzo Dioxasilane.
First, we investigated the in vitro effect of [Cu-Zn-Mn] triad on the skin repair improvement. Then, the clinical efficacy and tolerance of the new emulsion have been performed.
After treatment of fibroblasts or keratinocytes with [Cu-Zn-Mn] triad, we examined cell migration and proliferation by the scratch-Assay and we evaluated the markers of keratinocytes proliferation (b1-integrin), differentiation (involucrin) and Dermal- Epidermal Junction (b4-integrin) using ELISA.
Clinical efficacy of the emulsion has been tested on 139 patients with 67% of children.
They were affected by various pathologies : irritation from external origin ; AD and ACD and superficial cutaneous alterations.
The tested product was applied twice daily for 10 days.
In vitro, we have shown that the [Cu-Zn-Mn] triad acted at different levels of the skin in order to enhance wound healing by promoting reepithelialisation, reinforcing DEJ and improving dermal wound recovery.
Moreover, in clinical study, overall, the product was efficient on 81% of the patients.
The comparison of different groups revealed that the Cu-Zn-Mn triad was efficient for all conditions tested, and that this product is totally adapted for children.
A new Cu-Zn-Mn emollient has been developed for various irritant, allergic and traumatic dermatitis and give excellent results for adults and children.
It was the first time that we could demonstrate that the Mn addition to the Cu-Zn complex stimulates the epidermal regeneration and restores skin barrier function.
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with skin barrier disruption
resulting from major lipids metabolism dysfunctions. _ Dermo-corticosteroids (DC) are used for AD flares but have potential side effects. PPAR-a (peroxysomeproliferative-activated receptors) are transcription factors involved in the regulation of epidermal homeostasis (differentiation, proliferation, inflammation. . .).
A new emollient, containing a patented sunflower oleodistillate (SO), has been formulated for AD. We have previously shown that SO : (1) activates of PPAR-a in CV1 cells ; (2) induces the synthesis of key epidermal lipids (eg, ceramides 33, cholesterol 32) in human skin explants ; and (3) reduces TPA-induced inflammation (oedema and cytokines mRNA production).
Materials and methods :
In our study,we have investigated the potential role of a new patented PPAR-a agonist emollient on DC sparing and on quality of life (QoL) of young atopic children and their family. Eighty-six patients, (4-48 months), were randomised into 5 treatment groups : DC (desonide 0,05%) 23/D, 13/D with or without PPAR-a agonist and DC 1D/2 with PPAR-a agonist for 21 days. Evaluations of SCORAD and QoL (DFI = Dermatitis Family Impact and IDQLI = Infant’s Dermatitis Quality of Life Index) were performed at D7 and D21.
At D7, all groups had a statistical improvement of their SCORAD ([60%, P\.001) without differences between them (P = .715). This illustrates rapid action of steroids.
At D21, the 5 groups were also statistically improved (P\.001) but with better results in the 3 PPAR-a agonist groups (mean improvement 73.7%) than in the 2 other groups (mean 60.5%). PPAR-a agonist impact was noticed mostly on lichenification, excoriation and dryness. Global evaluation of QoL at D21 revealed that PPAR-a agonist1DC offers a better improvement (73%, P\.001) than DC alone (52%, P\.01).
A twice-daily application of new PPAR-a agonist emollient permits a corticoid sparing of 50 to 75% and a higher quality of life improvement for children and parents.